Terry's Photo Challenge. . .

Terry Thornton has posted a photo of himself in a funny costume and has issued a Photo Challenge to all Genea-Bloggers. My contribution was taken in the spring of 1965, after the final performance of my Junior Class Play - The Many Loves of Dobie Gillis, which was loosely based on the television show of the same name. That's me on the left ;-) portraying Happy Stella Kowalski who was the leader of an all-male band. We had fun. The face of my classmate in the photo has been blocked out, but I'm sure he'd know who it was if he saw the picture.


** Update November 11, ..**
Part of Terry's challenge was to post a costumed photo of yourself as an adult. Now, I realize that a 17 year old High School Junior would not normally be considered an adult. However, I was much older than my years would indicate. I'm much younger now than I was then ;-) there were way too many responsibilities weighing me down back then. If you'd known me then you would also know how "out of character" this was for me. I was extremely shy (still shy but not near as much). I didn't wear makeup (still don't). Participating in the class play was a "defining moment" for me since it was the first time I was recognized for an achievement. It was also the first crack in the wall that I had built around myself.

First Backcountry Ski

On Sunday, Dan and I headed down to Mount Rainier with the goal of skiing the Pinnacle/Castle saddle area. I took a look at the initial slope and didn't like the thought of coming down it. So we drove up to Paradise and started skinning up to the Muir Snowfield. The snow was pretty scoured above Panorama Point, so we stopped there to go downhill. The snow was thick sticky mush. We decided to not do laps and to hit the Copper Creek for some burgers and shakes. At least the weather was nice.

Dan taking a rest from skinning. Note all the tracks.

The Tatoosh and Adams.

Dan boarding in the crud.

Me, pretending to ski. (photo by Dan Engel)

Pashley and a Burning Bush

The Co-Habitant's Pashley Roadster Sovereign has not made an appearance here in some time, but today he demanded to be featured by posing handsomely next to this beautiful "burning bush." The Co-Habitant loves this bicycle. He has been commuting to work on it since May, and says that it only gets more comfortable with time and that he is even happier with it now than on the day he got it. That is a pretty glowing review! Lately, he even seems to prefer the Pashley for longer rides, like the 25 mile trip we made today.

He is also extremely pleased with the B33 saddle, which is super-sprung to support the weight of a large man in an upright sitting position (the Co-Habitant is around 6ft and 200lb).

Tall, dark, handsome and brooding. Perfect.

You can't really tell in this photo, but the bicycle is enormous for someone with my body-frame. The saddle reaches past my waist, the handlebars to my armpits, and I can't clear the top tube. Still, I like to pose with it and pretend that I can ride it. It is a beautiful bicycle and a great partner to my Eustacia.

Grivel's G20 Monopoint

The crux of the Croz Spur, photos and content courtesy of Dave Searle



So I had a problem.... I had just bought a brand new pair of scarpa 6000's and I didn't have a crampon to fit on them. I prefer using Mono points for mixed climbing and I knew that if I wanted a super-light crampon I only really had two options. The Grivel G20 or the Petzl Dart.



I bought the G20's from a shop here in Chamonix over a year ago now and I have used them for nearly all my climbing. I have used them on the north face's of the Eiger, Droites and Grandes Jorasses. I used them water ice climbing and I have also used them mixed climbing in Scotland as well as using them as my dry-tooling crampon. Are they reaching the end of there life? I'd say so, but hey they have had a good innings.



I knew when I bought them that unlike a modular crampon like the G14 or M10 it would be expensive to change the front section when the front point became to short. I do a lot of climbing and I was willing to take that financial hit for saving the weight and having a more technical crampon. I really wanted a crampon with rear facing secondary points for dry tooling and steep mixed.



These crampons have worked really well in all but one area..... ridges. I know that they weren't designed for that and to be honest any climber who looked at them or used them would say the same thing. If your looking for a crampon that will cover classic alpine routes then look somewhere else. If your looking for a super-light mixed climbing mono then these baby's are well worth a look.



Why aren't they any good for ridge's I hear you ask. Well they are built around Grivels own “mono rail” concept which means that the front of the crampon is attached to the back by a single rail with four teeth along its length. It sits right underneath your foot so when you put your foot on any flat or rounded rock your balancing on one of the rail points which is isn't that stable.



I used these crampons when I climbed the Colton/Macintyre this year and they worked really well on the face, but after we topped out we continued straight into the traverse of the Jorrases, a long and precipitous ridge climb to get to the Canzio Bivi. It was quite hard work with these crampons on but I still managed it ok. I'm not saying you won't be able to climb ridges with them on, all I'm saying is if you want one crampon to rule it all then there are probably better designs out there.



What you loose in stability on that kind of terrain you gain in other area's. For example not having the 4th row of points on the side of your foot means that the 3rd, rear facing points are easier to use when drytooling or steep mixed climbing because there isn't anything in the way on the side of your foot. If you've ever properly used the 'rake' points for there intended purpose you'll know what I'm trying to say. Also having the points underneath your feet on the fixed bar means that if you ever kick your foot out or use it sideways around a icicle you can really get them in because they are so solid on the bottom of your foot.



As can be expected from Grivel these crampons are really well made and I have had no issues with the build quality. I'm not sure what to say about the longevity of them as I personally think they have lasted really well for the use I have given them but some of my friends who have used them as well don't feel the same way. Perhaps I'm better at hitting the ice rather than the rock when I'm mixed climbing?



One thing that Grivel have gone for over Petzl is three adjustments holes for the front bail. This means that you can have the front point super short for technical mixed climbing or super long for ice. Its useful to have that adjustment for when you've filed the front point down a bit as you can push it further forward to get better hold on softer ice or snow.



When I bought these crampons they did not come with the subsidiary horizontal front point that they now come with. I'm not sure how much this will help with grip in snow or soft ice but I haven't had any issues without it. They don't grip as well as a traditional crampon in snow but all you need to do is kick a bit harder up that snow cone before the fun really begins.



I thought that I was going to have some problems with balling up (when heavy wet snow collects under your crampons in a ball, which is heavy and annoying on the flat and pretty dangerous on a slope!). I can honestly say that I haven't had any issues with this with these crampons and that's not because I haven't encountered the right snow for it. I can recount a few times when partners that have been using the Darts have had a total mare of it when its been fine for me. You can buy an anti-balling plate for the front but I haven't felt the need for it yet.



There is only one thing I would change about these crampons. I would get rid of the first point on the mono rail (the furthest forward one). Why? Because I find when I stand on a large spike it takes me a bit fiddling to locate the front of my foot onto it securely. I think if this point wasn't there not only would it be a few grams lighter but it would be easier to nestle your foot on the top of that big granite block your eye-balling.



Pinocchio, Mont Blanc du Tacul

http://searler.com/



"All in all its a great technical crampon that excels on mixed terrain and water ice but also copes really well with big stuff and dry tooling." Dave Searle





Pinocchio, Mont Blanc du Tacul from skigrandbec on Vimeo.









Sometimes you just wear gear out and it simply needs to be replaced

Joy and Sorrow

My friend Lorene passed away yesterday afternoon. It has been a rough week. But amongst the sorrow there were times of joy and pleasure in getting to know her son and daughter-in-law and their two children.

Roadster in the Rain

My Co-Habitant never tires of tantalising me with photos of his Pashley Roadster, while I suffer here alone and bicycle-less in distant lands. Here are some close-up shots in the rain...

Oh how the raindrops do glisten on that chrome ding-dong bell...

and on the Sturmey Archer 5-speed hub...

and on the Brooks Glenbrook bag...

Brooks saddles come with this convenient rain cover. Don't know whether I think they look cool or perverse! Either way, I am completely envious.

On Passive Transportation

Sometimes I think about the phrase "Active Transportation," as used by cycling and walking advocates. I think about it especially when I find myself on a long distance bus, train or airplane trip, or as a passenger in a car: sitting still, sometimes for hours, as I am propelled through space with no input from my own body or mind. It is at times like these that the notion of active transportation is at its most appealing, because I am experiencing its opposite so keenly. This unnatural stillness as trees and houses flicker in the corner of my eye, this uncomfortable awareness of being carted, transported, delivered is what Passive Transportation feels like to me.



There is a great deal of focus today on encouraging physical activity. Walk more, be more physically active, be healthier. Getting around on foot and by bike are seen as crucial to a more physically active lifestyle. And public transit is included in what active transportation encompasses, because it is typically used in conjunction with walking or cycling. Walk a few blocks to catch the bus or subway, then walk some more to the office. And because there's no car parked at work, walk to and from lunch as well. An increase in physical activity, however small, is the goal.



Comparatively under-addressedare the psychological aspects of active and passive transportation. And here things get a little tricky, because in a lot of people's minds the car wins. When drivers explain why they want to drive and why they enjoy driving, much of it has to do with feelings of independence and control. The association starts early, as suburban American teenagers see their driver's license and their first car as tickets to freedom. The connection only strengthens in adulthood. Driving allows us to actively control our routes, our destinations, our schedule, our speed. Psychologically, this is active transportation.



Except for those instances when it's not - instances that in some parts of the world are becoming ever more frequent, possibly even the norm, and starting to redefine the driving experience. Those who find driving appealing tend to picture the ideal: driving a car along efficient highways or through scenic country roads, arriving at their destination to park directly in front of the entrance. But as many of us know, and quality of life studies are starting to note, this is far from reality today. Traffic controls car travel. In areas where it is heavy, it can slow cars to a crawl, overriding the driver's control over their speed, route selection, and schedule. The difficulties of finding parking, and obligations having to do with city ordinances, create additional restrictions. In an idealised version of the driving experience the driver may be an active agent, but in the real world they are increasingly not only passive but trapped.



Freedom of mobility is important to human beings. There is dignity in being independent, in being in control of one's movements and one's time. We place value in this, and with dignity and independence comes prestige. Modes of transportation perceived as more dignified will carry more prestige than modes that are not, and how the concept of active transportation is framed will play a role in this. Passive transportation users will be receptive to alternatives seen to offer more freedom and control, not just more physical activity.

Yard ArtLawn Darts ..

After sadly not going out on Sunday due to the forecast rain and not seeing any rain in Seattle, I convinced Adam to do a one day trip to Leavenworth. I was hoping to get a lot of climbing in, but the forecast was against us. (40% chance of rain after 2pm) So we drove into the Icicle and headed straight for Peek-a-Boo Tower to do the three star route Yard Art, but finish with the four star Lawn Darts.

Adam starting the first pitch

It was partly sunny as we hiked up, but we quickly donned jackets for the climb, and I ended up in my shell before leaving the ground. Adam led the first pitch which was varied 5.7 climbing and mostly gear. (I found the crux of the pitch to be a chimney like feature about half way up.) I came up to the belay and got confused by the guide's description of the second pitch. "Scary moves off the belay" was not exactly true, as the first moves off the belay were not scary. Once you clip a bolt, there were some delicate moves (crux of the pitch) left before making a few moves upward where you are able to grab a large crack and the difficulties ease off for the rest of the pitch. I led up this pitch and brought Adam up.

Adam coming up the second pitch

Adam said he'd give the next pitch a go, but balked a bit a few moves from the third clip. He started to down climb a move and I didn't like what I saw and locked him off just before he slipped and fell. He shook himself off without any injury and got back on. He started to do the same moves again but admitted his head wasn't in it after the fall. He backed off and gave the lead to me. I cruised up the spot where he peeled, and made the few delicate maneuvers to reach the next bolt and continue to the top. When I got to the anchor, instead of proceeding to the base of Lawn Darts, I stopped and belayed Adam up. There was a wet patch on Lawn Darts, and I wasn't sure it was possible to do, so I wanted to look at it while I belayed Adam.

Adam cruised the pitch on top rope, and we briefly assessed Lawn Darts from the belay. We agreed the water did not appear to affect the route, and I belayed Adam over to the base of the climb, where he brought me up.

We put the trad rack in our pack, and I counted enough draws to make it to the top. Then I proceeded up. This long pitch starts easily and then reaches a small overlap where I slipped after clipping the bolt. (I did not fall.) That shook me up as I was just standing there, and I think it really messed with my head. I hung for a bit before getting back on. The rock near my feet had a high quartz content, and was quite slippery. I had to work for good foot placements before stepping up onto the overlap, where traction got better. A few moves higher up and there were larger features and eventually some cracks/holes that made the climbing much easier through that section. Around this point, it started to rain slightly. Not enough to make the rock wet yet but enough to make me notice.

Adam at the base of Lawn Darts

The crux of the route comes surmounting a roof. It is easy to get halfway up and clip a bolt above the roof, but I found the next move right to be difficult. In my head I just wanted off the climb, and with the slight rain, I just couldn't motivate to figure out the correct sequence and eventually grabbed the draw to move over. Once in my new position I used some "bigger holds" to gain upward movement and continue to the top. I didn't find the upper section that difficult, but my mind was pretty fried and that always makes climbing feel difficult. At the top I set up a belay and brought Adam up. He hung to rest his calves, and then fell twice at the move right above the roof. Fortunately the rain waited to come down harder until he was at my side. Then we started our rappels.

Rapping in the rain

While we rapped quickly, the rain started coming down harder. By the time we were on our final rap, the rock was wet, and we were getting a little more wet too. We packed up and the rain subsided, only to return again harder about the time we reached the car. Our hopes for other climbs faded, and we headed home to Seattle where it was raining heavily on the west side of the Cascades.

A few interesting items of note. One is that I have been noticing the weather forecasts to be spot on lately. The forecast for Seattle the other day said showers until 11am, and I think they may have lasted until 10:30 before tapering off. Today on route, the rain arrived around 2pm just as forecast. This is interesting, but I have made a new policy of going out to Leavenworth as long as the forecast calls for less than 50% chance of rain. Not sure if I'd apply that same rule to the west side or mountains yet. The other item of note is that Lawn Darts is completely within my capability and I did not climb it that well. I started off with a good head for the climb, but the impending weather and generally lackluster day wore me down. As well as my unexpected slip. I'm not sure there is anything I can do about climbing in weather, but I'll try to be more conscious of my deteriorating head space in the future.

Rock Bear

Every time I see this rock out in this meadow I think it looks like a large bear standing on it's hind legs scratching its back against the other rocks. You can see the ear at the highest point, then the head and nose, from legs with paws dangling, belly and back legs. Or is it just my excessive imaganation?

Trees at Highland Hammocks Park

While we were at the park, I saw Nathan doing something and couldn't quite figure it out. I snapped a picture first and then asked what he was doing.



He said he was feeling the tree move and when I did the same thing, sure enough you could feel it swaying.



We then talked about all of the cool things to do with trees, and moved to specifically discussing how neat the trees here are.











Next time we visit, I hope to get shots of the giant trees that Auburn calls Jurassic Park trees.



Living the life in sunny Florida!

'Off Label' Use

In pharmacological jargon, there is a term, "off label use," that refers to a treatment being used successfully for something other than it was originally formulated for. That's kind of how I am starting to feel about my Royal H.mixte. When I asked Bryan to build me this bike in the Fall of , I envisioned it as predominantly for light touring. But in practice I mostly use it as a long-distance transportation bike. I think I've only done recreational rides on it a total of maybe three times, whereas I ride it for transportation whenever I need to travel over 7 miles or so one way - which is several times a week.



Using a bike for purposes other than intended can happen for any number of reasons. For instance, our cycling preferences can change, as mine did. For recreational riding, I now prefer to ride a diamond frame bike with drop bars. Also, life circumstances can change. Just a couple of months after I got the mixte, we ended up without a car, and I actually needed a light, easy long-distance transportation bike. When I was ordering the bike, I did not foresee either of these changes.





The good thing about using the mixte "off label," is that most of the things that made it good for light touring also make it work as a long distance transportation bike. The frame allows me to wear a skirt. It can handle hills and distances without me breaking a sweat. Its compact size and maneuverable handling make it good in the sort of suburban stripmall-roadish traffic that I usually encounter out of town. The springy ride quality means that long trips don't tire me out. The 35mm tires are sufficiently wide for bad roads and even off-road. The dynamo lighting system is fantastic and I never have to worry about getting stuck in the middle of nowhere in the dark. The front and rear racks enable me to carry several small loads at a time. Everything that I need for my trips is there. The few times I've tried to use a roadbike for long distance transportation, I arrive to my destination out of breath and with sweaty hair. On the upright mixte I am a bit slower, but am always presentable and fresh.



There are however a few things that are less than ideal about the mixte given how I use it. The short chainstays made it difficult to find panniers that did not give me heelstrike, though I did find several after having made a mission of it (see Philosophy, Cristobal, and the Po-Campo pictured here). But the more irksome issue is that I get a wee bit of toe overlap on this bike, which freaks me out when cycling in traffic. It is a small amount of toe overlap that might even disappear if I wore PowerGrips or removed the fenders - but neither of those is practical on an upright transportation bicycle. Converting the bike to 650B would solve the problem, but would be expensive, considering that I'd have to get new wheels built, and buy a new set of brakes, as well as new tires and fenders. So I am kind of stuck between thinking that the toe overlap is not a big deal and the bike is fine as is, and being irritated with it, since it is the one thing that undermines my enjoyment of an otherwise fantastically versatile bicycle.



Lots of bikes are used off-label round these parts, and the prevalence of this practice made me smile last night when a carbon fiber racing bike flew by with a sizable steel front basket attached to the fork, sort of like this. My re-purposing of the mixte is not nearly as dramatic, but the question of a possible 650B conversion keeps swirling around my mind every time I ride the bike. Would you do it, or leave it be? Any interesting off-label use stories of your own to share?

The Rab Infinity Down Jacket

Mr. Rab Carrington himself, at a crag in Osp, Slovenia. photo couresty of Veronika






The "RAB" stands for Rab Carrington. For guys like me of a similar generation Rab Carrington was one of the hard Brits running around the Alps and later the greater ranges knocking off the plums.



"In the 70’s, you weren’t a rock climber, you were a mountaineer. In winter you ice climbed, in spring you tried to get rid of the winter fat, in the summer you went to the Alps, then you did a bit in the autumn before it closed in for the winter - the drinking season.





In 73/74 we started going to the Alps in winter. We went out, a team of Brits, not knowing much, doing our own thing. We were aiming for a speedy style, but the first route took Al and me two days, and we later found out that Patrick Vallençant had skied down it in about 15 seconds.



The whole team of us shared an apartment. That was a wild time, totally drunken and debauched. We didn’t get our deposit back at the end of the season, that’s for sure.



I learned how to make sleeping bags by accident. Al Rouse and I had a completely abortive trip to Patagonia in 1973, when we travelled overland from the USA. We got to Buenos Aires to pick up our climbing gear - which was being shipped out from Liverpool - only to find the gear hadn’t even left the port thanks to a dock strike. We partied instead, but I also ended up working for Hector Vieytes, a friend of mine, for six months in Argentina, and that’s were I learnt the basics.



I fell out with Al Rouse in Kangtega. We were very successful, Al and I, and had gone on lots of great trips together over the years. We’d just done Jannu in 1978, were going to Kangtega in 1979, then on to meet Doug Scott and go to Nuptse, then Makalu the year after, then we’d a chance at Everest. But we’d grown apart, we had a different emphasis. He was more into publicity and success à la Bonington, I was less in to that - we separated.



I started my business when Liz, my daughter came along in 1981. It was the only thing I knew how to do. I worked on a building site in the day and in the evenings I sat upstairs in the attic and sewed sleeping bags."



More here:

http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Feature.aspx?id=1685



The reason I mention Rab's history is I am convinced a basis in hard alpinism is the design genius behind a lot of innovative and quality gear. Problem is there are a lot of pretenders out there with neither design genius or building quality gear. And the climbing public seldom knows the difference. Give enough shit away and sponsor the right people with a slick multimillion dollar catalog campaign and all is "right" with the world. Right of course till the "shit" fails by design or by lack of quality.



I am a huge fan of down as insulation. Sadly I don't generally climb where is it dry enough to use it a lot these days.



Alaska sure. In the Alps? Not so much for what I have been doing recently. May be this spring that will change. My buddy Jon Griffith thinks down is the sheet for climbing jackets.Here in the Cascades..you are a dead duck. In Canada...on the ice fields, or the big faces? Sometimes. Around town? Sure.



Jon's hard won suggestions:



http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=3533



There are a few down garments I have no problem recommneding if used i nthe rght conditions.



Theexcellent Norrona Lyngen and Eddie Bauer Peak XV jackets are two. More here:



http://coldthistle.blogspot.com//03/design-triumphsthe-norrna-lyngen-down.html



http://coldthistle.blogspot.com//02/belay-jacketsthe-heavy-weights.html



As slick as the Norrona is it is a bit heavy for somethings as is the XV when you start adding them to your pack.



I have a bunch of down sweaters, the previous Eddie Bauer pullover Hoody being one of the best and most used. But is is a pullover which limits the garment's use I find. And most of the time if I want down I want more than a sweater weight garment.









Enter theRab "Infinity:". It has a little more loft than a sweater, packs smaller and wasobviously designed by a team that knows about "fast, light and warm". The down is 850 fill.



Here are the factory specs:



◦NEW Pertex® Quantum 10D ultra light rip stop nylon outer and lining



◦Stitch-through baffle construction

◦210g/7oz of down fill. (L) of 850 fill power superior quality European white goose down

◦Lycra edged fixed down filled hood

◦2 hand warmer pockets with YKK zips

◦1-way YKK front zip and mini internal insulated zip baffle with chin guard

◦Elasticated cuffs

◦Double exit hem drawcord

◦Short cut



I got my XLa month or so ago. It weighs 17.5 oz on my scale...close enough to the advertised over all weight of16oz/460g for a large. I spent a day in a light rain with it and the material was still shedding water when I finally added a shell. I like the cut and the amount of insulation you get for the weight involved. Like many really good pieces of kit, it is a simple product with a very complicated design.

And imo this one is done right.



Of all my down gear, the Infinityis a piece that finally fits in where I thought a good piece of kit was needed. It is a small niche market for climbers but the RAB Infinityis one well worth looking at. if you have similar needs.






The Eddie BauerSweater pictured aboveat -30C. The RAB "Infinity" bumpedit inmy line up because of the better design and materials used for cold alpine climbing by RAB.




Credit where it is due? Eddie Bauer has a price point that is difficult to ignore forhigh quality down garments. The original Down Hoody is an excellent bit of kit.




RAB Infinity Jacket is $280 retail. The Eddie Bauer Hooded Down Sweater is $200. The $80 difference? While both are sewn through, The RABis a "jacket" and the EB a "sweater" in my opinion both with appropriate levels of insulation.

the best of the lwt ice climbing boots

The LWT ice boots:

Things have changed in the last couple of years and it continues tobe for the better!

































Scrapa Rebel Ultra size 45 1# 14oz




Scarpa Phantom Ultra size 45 weight 2# 4oz










La Sportiva Trango Extr Evo GTX size 45 weight 2# 3oz







La Sportiva Batura 2.0 size 45 2# 2oz











La Sportiva Trango Extr Evo GTX size 45 weight 2# 3oz




















Largervolume on the left, the Batura 2.0 and the smallervolume, the Rebel Ultra, on the right

All these boots fall between these two for volume and warmth.




weights are PER Boot:



Scrapa Rebel Ultra size 45 1# 14oz



La Sportiva Batura 2.0 size 45 2# 2oz



Scarpa Phantom Ultra size 45 weight 2# 4oz



La
Sportiva Trango Extr Evo GTX size 45 weight 2# 3oz



Zamberlan Paine GTX 2# 8oz



(how much do
your gaiters weigh?)



Every boot listedhere except the Trango has a gaiter built in.

All are Goretex lined. Except the PhantomUltra. Which is notable imo.



La Sportiva Trango Prime is another boot that would fit this category.



http://coldthistle.blogspot.com//11/la-sportiva-trango-prime-trango-extreme.html



These are fiveof my favorite lwt single boots for
winter use. Given the option it is a hard
decision on which to choose when looking at the temps that will easily allow
any of them.



Soles flexibility depends on you shoe size. The bigger the boot the more flexible the boot sole.

All of these boots are rigid enough for vertical ice using the right crampons. "Right" crampon choice on these boots is the key toperformance IMO.






Scarpa's PhantomUltra





Phantom Ultra in use with a PetzlDartwin




I am a big boy weight wise. 190# stripped and a good bit more kitted out on the ice. The Scarpa Ultra (both versions) and a Dartwin is IMO a very good set up for vertical ice. This coming for a guy who really prefers a rigid crampon and rigid boot mid sole. I learned to appreciate the softer flexing mid solesScarpa has offered recently.



But given a choice I still like a fairlyrigid boot with lots of support. Thelighter weight thebetter, imo.



http://coldthistle.blogspot.com//01/true-love-dane-and-his-boots.html





Let me do a run down of my thoughts on each and let you
choose.



I have long skinny feet with very (VERY) narrow ankles. I'm a Size 45 or 45.5in theseboots. The Scarpa and Zamberlan lasts seem to fit me the best. I see a lot of comments saying theLa Sportivas are a narrower last. I am not convinced as I can wear any of them with little complaint.Best to always try on the boots you want to consider. I find all of theboots listed very close on sizing and lasts. Only toe boxes changing the fit very much and of course the lacing systems. For melacing systems are best designed, KISS. KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID.They make or a break a boot in the end. I think that gets forgotten some times by the design teams.I run between a 45 and a 45.5 in all of these boots.



Here is my 2 second review on all of them.




Scrapa Rebel Ultra size 45 1# 14oz



Best fit of the bunch for me in a 45.5 by far. Easy enough to get in and out of.Lacing is slick and ankle support very good. I like this boot. For the fit and support it offers for the weight I'll put up with the lack of warmth to a point. 1/2# per pair lighterthan the Batura.



La Sportiva Batura 2.0 size 45 2# 2oz



Likely the warmest of the boots listed. But the Phantom Ultra is right in there as well. Very flexible ankle and a high tech honeycomb carbon mid sole. Hard to notlike this boot. I find the lace system annoying. If the lace system offered a better fit for methiswould likely be "my" boot.



Scarpa Phantom Ultra size 45 weight 2# 4oz



Advantage Scarpa here. Almost the fitof a Rebel Ultra. Almost the warmth of the Batura. Heavier than either. Easy in and out. They dry faster than any of the GTXboots and they climb well. I suspect they dry faster because they never get as wet on the inside. The Goldilocks boot? May be. It needs a Scarpa update and to be imported into North America in half sizes. Likely never ever happen though. Phantom Guide is already well established in the market.



La Sportiva Trango Extreme Evo GTX size 45 weight 2# 3oz



Super slid all around performer. This is the boot that needed a gaiter. One designed"out of the box."But a super hard boot to dry out once wet. I really like this boot for a lot of reasons. The best reason? It is simple and it works every where.....till it gets wet inside.



Zamberlan Paine GTX 2# 8oz



Old school fit and finish. Which are good things. The mid sole is pretty rigid and very supportive. They fit almost crampon exceptionally well. Not every boot here does. They are a bit heavy. But the craftsmanship and materials clearly show you why they are 6oz heavier per boot than the Batura 2.0. If you have the money for only one boot and need it to last for a while. This is your boot. May be the most comfortable boot of the bunch for me out of the box.


FWIW until recently the Zamberlan boots were extremely hard to get a hold of in the USA. That has changed.I'll have full, detailed reviews up shortly on the Paine, Eiger and Denali versions. They are bootsyou will want to know more about. Took me 3 years to finally get a pair in hand and I think, worth the wait.



They areavailable here:

http://www.prolitegear.com/Zamberlan.htm



All but twoof the boots
offersticky rubber soles with minimal lug height. The Zamberlan Paine and the La Sportiva Batura 2.0 being the exceptions with a full size lugs. Makes short lugsa little slick in some snow conditions. But that is why we wear crampons isn't it?



I have heardof the Trango having too narrow of a foot print and being unpleasant on
trails..an "ankle twister". "BS" was my first thought...but I heard it more
than once and always from people I trust using the boot. Not something I
personally experienced though. And I have walked a bunch in the Trangos.



The Ultra is a OutDry lined boot. The
restGoretex lined boots.



All stay dry if you keep the water below
boot top height. The GTX bootsseems to retain more moisture from foot sweat.
Allare difficult to dry once wet.



More here on an Ultra and Trango comparison I made earlier. I was wrong on the Dart/Dartwin/Ultra combo btw. There are crampons that can be made to fit better but none more reliable and proven over the last couple of years nowthan the Scarpa-Dartwin combo.



http://coldthistle.blogspot.com//12/phantom-ultra-vs-trango-extreme-gtx.html



Lots of options these days to get a really good boot and more importantly to me a GOOD fit. It has not always been so in this category of boot. Some work to be done yet.



As I have mentioned so many times previous.

A super light weight double boot that will climb ice, under the magic1.5# in a size 45. And something you can actually dry in the field over night should be the on every one's mind.



Till then I will do my best to wear a few of these out!